Wayne Dalton TorqueMaster Torsion Spring Replacement

Wayne Dalton TorqueMaster garage door torsion spring replacement tutorial

Wayne Dalton TorqueMaster torsion spring assemblies incorporate a gearbox to allow the homeowner to easily adjust his springs using a 7/16" socket extension on an electric drill. The homeowner typically does not see these torsion springs because they are inside the torque tube. This design tends to be safer than the standard torsion spring assembly, but the TorqueMaster springs typically do not last as long as standard springs.

The purpose of these instructions is to help you replace your Wayne Dalton TorqueMaster springs. If you have two springs on your garage door, we suggest that you replace both; your second spring will probably break soon. Though these instructions are written for a double spring system, you can eliminate some of the steps in this tutorial for replacing a single spring.

Wayne Dalton also published instructions for replacing TorqueMaster springs, which can be found on their website. While our tutorial below should not require the use of Wayne Dalton's instructions, we include the link to possibly help should you run into any problems.

1. Disconnect the opener drawbar arm from the garage door. You will typically need to remove a clevis pin by first taking off the cotter pin, as pictured.
2. Unplug the opener. This will keep the opener from running if somebody accidentally tries to open the door while you are working.
3. You are now ready to unwind the gear boxes that are used to hold the tension in the torsion springs. First, loosen the lock nut in the back a quarter turn.
4. Using a 7/16" or an 11 mm hex-head extension in a drill, unwind the winding bolt head on the gearbox on the right. If this spring is not broken, you will be unwinding the spring. Otherwise, you will just be reseting the gearbox. As you run the drill, the "0" on the counter assembly should slowly approach the tick mark on the end bracket.
5. Stop when the "0" lines up with the mark on the end bracket. The spring, if it is not broken, is now unwound.
6. If you have a second TorqueMaster spring inside your torque tube, you need to also unwind it. Loosen the lock nut a quarter turn. Reset the gearbox to "0". If you only have one spring, you will not have the gearbox on the left side.
7. When there is no longer any tension from the springs, the cable will be loose. DANGER: If the cable is not loose, figure out where the tension is coming from. Remove this tension before proceeding.
8. You are now set to disassemble the gearboxes. Carefully pry the counter gear off the end bracket with a screwdriver.
9. Remove the counter gear from the shaft.
10. Inspect the counter gear and wheel. If they are damaged you will need to order new parts.
11. Remove the lag screws that hold the end bracket to the garage header.
12. You can use wrenches or sockets to remove these screws - the best tool depends on the space you have and your selection of tools.
13. Remove the Phillips-head screw that secures the end bracket.
14. You may need to use a punch, awl, or nail to remove the screw once it is loose.
15. Lift the assembly off of the top of the flag bracket.
16. You are now ready to disassemble the right end of the torque tube. Pry the end bracket off of the winding cone.
17. The end bracket encases the drive gear. Check the drive gear for stripped teeth, and order a new one if needed. Notice also the end of the black winding cone sticking out through the bearing of the cable drum.
18. Remove the cable drum from the shaft. You probably will have to twist the drum on the torque tube to remove the pressure from the torque that has locked the drum to the tube.
19. If this spring was broken, pull the end portion of the spring out of the tube. On heavier doors with bigger springs you'll see a 3/8" metal rod sticking out of the tube. Wayne Dalton uses this rod as a spacer to gap the springs. You will remove the rest of the spring later.

Slide the tube a few inches to the left so that it rests on the angle supporting the horizontal track.
20. Move to the left side of the garage door. If you have a double-spring assembly, you are now going to disassembly the left side. Remove the two lag screws that secure the end bracket to the header. Remove the screw as well.
21. Remove the counter assembly, the counter gear, the end bracket, and the drive gear.
22. Twist the cable drum off of the torque tube.
23. If this spring is broken, remove the end portion from the tube. Otherwise, leave the spring in the tube.
24. Move to the center bracket. Bend the top of the bracket away from the bushing with a vise grip.
25. Slide the shaft to one side of the door. This will help you to balance the tube when you remove it.
26. Raise the torque tube so that the bushing comes out of the center support bracket.
27. Lower the tube to the floor. Watch out for vehicles. Assume that the weight distribution of the tube may change at any moment - part of the broken spring may slide to the other end of the tube.
28. TorqueMaster springs have an outer liner to prevent the springs from rattling in the torsion tube as the garage door operates. You will need to remove the liner before the spring will slide out. There will likely be some friction between the plastic sleeve and the tube, particularly in cold weather.
29. The remainder of the broken spring should slide out of this side of the tube as well. If the other end of the spring is stuck inside the tube, knock it loose with a hammer and a long rod. A broomstick or a piece of conduit will usually work.
30. Move to the other end of the torque tube. Remove the other sleeve. Dried grease often bonds the end of the liner to the inside of the tube. You may need to use needle nose pliers to grip and pull the sleeve. If the liner strips when pulling on it, grip the end of the liner with the pliers and turn the pliers around two or three times. This will break the bond between the liner and the torsion tube. You can also insert a hacksaw blade or a coat hanger between the liner and tube to break the bond. You can also heat the end of the tube to loosen the liner. After removing both springs and the plastic liners look through one end of the tube to make certain all the parts are removed. The tube should be completely empty.
31. Compare your new TorqueMaster spring with your old spring. Some cones are plastic while others are metal. Using a different material will not matter. Check the wind of the springs. The new right-wind spring replaces the old right-wind spring on the right side of the garage door. The opposite is true for the left-wind spring. If you are unsure of your spring's wind, see our torsion spring FAQ's.
32. The manufacturer used to include a new counter assembly, a counter gear, some grease, and an additional winding cone. However, these parts no longer come with the springs. You should be able to reuse your existing counter gears and counter wheels. If the drive gear is dry you will want to lubricate it with motor oil, 3-In-One oil, Vaseline or light grease.
33. Examine the winding end of each spring. Look for the embossed designation of "Left" or "Right" or a part number beginning with "LH" or "RH." These designate the wind of the springs. Select the right wind spring and slide it into the right side of the torque tube, perch-end first.
34. As you slide the spring into the tube, there will likely be friction between the spring sleeve and the tube. Though forcing the sleeve into the tube is okay, you may find it beneficial to straighten the end of the tube if it is bent.
35. When the sleeve is completely inside of the tube, the winding cone should still stick out. It is okay if an inch or two of spring also sticks out of the tube when the perched end of the spring is against the opposite end of the sleeve.
36. The end of the sleeve should be even with the end of the tube, as pictured.
37. Vise grip the winding cone without distorting its shape. The vise grip is only there to keep the spring from sliding into the tube.
38. Install the left-wind spring in the torque tube. Vise grip the winding cone as well.
39. Raise the tube back up above the garage door. Caution: there may not be an even distribution of weight. Swing the vise grip on one end of the tube over the horizontal track to help support the tube as you position it.
40. Align the bushing in the center bracket.
41. Bend the top of the center bracket back over the bushing.
42. Move to the left side of the door. Position the winding cone in the groove at the top of the flag bracket. Remove the vise grip.
43. Remove the vise grip on the other side of the garage door, making sure that the tube will not fall. If the sleeve has started to slide out of the tube, as pictured, slide it back into the tube.
44. Slide the cable drum over the winding cone and onto the shaft. There should be a small gap between the edge of the bearing on the cable drum and the teeth on the winding cone.
45. Grease or oil the drive gear.
46. Greasing or oiling the bearing will also extend the bearing's life.
47. Slide the drive gear on the winding cone as pictured.
48. Set the winding cone in the groove on the flag bracket. The cable drum should still be tight on the tube.
49. Slide the drive gear against the flag bracket. Slide the end bracket over the drive gear.
50. Pull down on the torque shaft so that the cable wraps around the back of the drum. The cable should be tight enough that it will stay in the groove, but loose enough that you can slip it out. Vise grip the tube at this position as pictured.
51. When the end bracket is positioned properly on the winding cone, the top worm gear should be in position to turn the drive gear. The end of the winding cone should be flush with the end of the end bracket.
52. Install the screw that secures the end bracket.
53. Reinstall both lag screws to hold the end bracket to the garage header.
54. Move to the other side of the garage door. Reassemble the gearbox after installing the cable drum.
55. Secure the end bracket to the flag bracket and to the garage header.
56. Make sure that the cable is in the groove of the drum.
57. Make sure that the cable on the other drum is still in the groove. Pull down on the shaft, tightening the cable on the drums. Reposition the vise grip on the tube to hold the cable on the drums. Make sure that both cables are still on the drums.
58. Place the counter gear inside the counter assembly. The missing tooth of the counter gear should line up with the notch in the counter assembly by the number zero.
59. Install these components on the end of the winding cone. If the initial position does not read "0", you will need to account for this difference when you wind the spring.
60. Wind the spring by turning the winding bolt head with a 7/16" hex head extension on a drill. The proper number of turns depends on your garage door height.
6'-high: 14 turns
7'-high: 16 turns
8'-high: 18 turns
61. Remove the vise grip from the torque tube.
62. Vise grip the track 2-3" above the top roller. If there is too much tension on your springs, this will keep the door from opening and knocking you off of your ladder.
63. Install the counter gear and counter assembly on the second winding cone.
64. Wind the second spring, taking note of the top roller's position in relation to the vise grip. Stop if the door begins to rise.
65. If the door begins to rise, you will need to remove tension from both springs.
66. If the garage door stays on the ground with both springs wound, remove the vise grip from the track.
67. Test the garage door. It should remain open on its own when it is open. It should stay on the floor when it is closed.
68. How to Level a Garage Door with Wayne Dalton Torquemaster Springs. If the garage door is not level, you will need to adjust the length of the cable on the side that is too high. Holding the end of the cable with a vise grip, loosen the setscrew on the cable drum. Adjust the cable length appropriately, securing the setscrew with 1 to 1-1/2 turns after it is snug against the cable.
69. Re-tighten the lock nuts on both winding units.
70. If you did not do so already, oil both bearings. I normally use 40 wt. motor oil, but 10W40 will also do.
71. Oil the center bushing.
72. Reinstall the opener drawbar arm.
73. Plug in your garage door opener. Check your garage door travel and force, and adjust as needed.