Customer Input

Converting from Two to Four Torsion Springs

Saturday, May 28th, 2016 at 2:38 pm by Dan Musick

When upgrading to longer life torsion springs, it is often better to convert to four smaller springs, especially when the springs are for heavier garage doors.

On a standard two spring system both springs are normally mounted back to back to the spring anchor bracket off-centered above the door.

2-spring-torsion-system

If the springs each weigh over 20 pounds, we recommend adding a bracket just beyond the end of the winding cone to support the weight. (The formula for locating the bracket before winding the spring is spring wire x number of turns plus four inches.)

shaft-support

Since an extra support bracket is needed beyond the end of each spring, we can just as easily use those brackets as spring anchor brackets for additional springs in a four spring setup. All that’s needed are extra 3/8″ X 1″ bolts and nuts.

A inquiry came in from Jordan regarding a 19′ wide X 7′ high door with a coupler in the middle of the shaft and two spring anchor brackets similar to the one in the image below.

shaft-coupler

Because the door is so heavy, we are recommending converting to four smaller springs to increase cycle life and manage the weight of the springs.

4-spring-torsion-system

You can find updated information on our blog titled “Four Spring Residential Torsion Systems.”

 

Overhead Door vs. Arrow Tru-Line Hinges

Monday, May 9th, 2016 at 4:14 pm by Dan Musick

Overhead Door Corporation has discontinued production of their own brand of hinges.

The Arrow-Truline hinges are an excellent replacement, but the holes don’t always line up with the existing carriage bolts on the older wooden doors.

OHD-ATL-Hinges

You can see the difference in the image below.

OHD vs ATL Hinges

I have almost always been able to reuse the bottom two bolts and the lower bolt in the top of the hinge. The problem is with the top hole. If the top hole is drilled at the top of the slot, the bolt won’t fit. In the past I’ve either knocked the bolt down to fit in the top slot or I’ve removed the top bolt and re-drilled the hole pitching the bit so I could reuse the outside hole but angle the bolt down on the inside so the bolt fits the lower slot.

On steel doors the self-drilling teks should suffice for accommodating the new holes.

The EZ-Set Bearing Keeps Coming Out

Friday, May 6th, 2016 at 4:29 pm by Dan Musick

We received an email this week from a do-it-yourselfer who had installed a Clopay door with an EZ Set torsion spring set up. On his door he has a single spring with a winder at the left end of the torsion assembly. At the right end of the torsion tube there is a bearing housed in a plastic frame that slides into the end bracket, as pictured here.

clopay-ez-set-assembly2

In the past year the bearing on the right side has come out of the plastic bearing holder a few times. When this happens, the shaft grinds on the bearing frame as the door operates. And, because the cable drum and cable is lower on the right side, this side reaches the floor first when closing, and there is a gap under the left end of the door.

The bearing probably came out because the bearing holder was installed backward. On an improperly installed bearing assembly, the race of the bearing faces the inside. Since there is nothing to hold it, it can come out.

ez-set-bearing-incorrect

The correct way to fix this is to reverse the black plastic bearing housing.

ez-set-bearing-drum-installation

The bearing holder fits into the end bracket with the race of the bearing touching the cable drum.

ez-set-bearing-drum-installation

When installed this way, the bearing cannot come out of the plastic holder.

On many installations the bearing is turned correctly, but the drum is not installed next to the bearing. If there is a gap between the drum and the bearing, the bearing may slip out. We have also found that a gap can cause the right side of the drum to scrape on the frame, causing the cable to come off the drum when the door opens. The cable drum at each end of the torsion shaft must be touching the race of the bearing.

If the only problem is the bearing being installed backward, and if it looks like too big of a project to correct, you can just install a hose clamp next to the race of the bearing. You can also drill and pin the shaft next to the bearing.

Converting from Double Low Headroom Tracks to High Lift

Tuesday, March 15th, 2016 at 9:10 am by Dan Musick

Over the years we have had customers contact us for help converting from double low headroom tracks to high lift, such as when they remove a loft above the door, or when they move a low headroom door from one location to another. Here are two solutions.

Your horizontal tracks are secured to angle and track clips with rivets, as shown below. Sometimes they are connected with track bolts and nuts.

low-headroom-06-double-tracks-rivets

If you are able to remove the rivets or fasteners, we have a simple solution.

For your horizontal tracks you would reuse the lower horizontal track with the complete radius. We would then provide the standard horizontal track angle to connect the horizontal track to the high lift angle.

For the vertical track extensions you would cut the length you need from the top horizontal tracks.

You would also need to replace your top fixtures and probably the bottom fixtures as well.

outside-lift

If you are not able to remove the rivets or track bolts, an alternate solution would be for us to provide new horizontal tracks with the standard horizontal track angle.

standard-horizontal-track-angle

 

Left and Right Hand Springs

Monday, February 22nd, 2016 at 9:59 am by Dan Musick

What is a left hand spring?

In the door business it could mean one of two things.

It could mean the wind of the spring, which would be a left wind spring. A spring wound the opposite direction would be a right wind spring. Doors with two standard torsion springs normally have one left wind and one right wind spring.

Garage Door Torsion Spring Wind

The designation “left hand” could also refer to the location of the spring on the shaft in relation to the center support bracket.

Spring on left side of bracket - Right Wind

Because the phrases “left hand spring ” and “right hand spring” are not specific designations,” it is essential that you clarify the meaning of your terms when ordering just one spring.

If, by “left hand,” you mean the spring is mounted to the left of the center support bracket as in the picture above you would need to order a right wind spring.

If, by “left hand,” you mean the wind of the spring, you need to order a left wind spring which is normally wound to the right of the center support bracket as pictured below.

Spring on right side of bracket - Left Wind

On standard systems the next component beyond the winding cone is the cable drum. Beyond that is the end bearing plate.

standard-torsion-system

On outside lift systems with double horizontal tracks the cable drum is mounted outside the end bearing plate, as pictured below.

outside-lift

Unlike the standard system where the cable comes off the side of the drum facing the jamb, on outside lift, double track systems the cable usually comes off the side of the drum facing the inside of the garage. If you have an outside lift system, and if the cables come off the drums as they do above, you would mount the left wound spring to the left of the center support bracket and the right wound spring to the right of the bracket. You will also wind down on each spring rather than up.

If you have only one torsion spring on a door, and if you happened to have ordered a spring with  the incorrect wind, rather than reordering a new spring with the correct wind, the simple solution is to remove the spring and install it on the other side of the center support bracket. In some cases you may need to relocate the spring anchor bracket to make room for the spring to fit.

Gaps on High Lift Doors with Windows

Monday, February 8th, 2016 at 9:35 am by Dan Musick

On a garage door with standard lift tracks the top of the door rises immediately into the radius at about a 45 degree angle. If the door has windows in the top section, the pitch of the tracks allows the window frame to clear the top PVC stop molding.

On high lift doors, however, the pitch of the upper vertical tracks is closer to 30 degrees. If the door has windows in the top section, the pitch of the tracks causes the window frame to scrape or catch the top PVC stop molding.

On new high lift doors with windows on the top section we normally install the top PVC stop molding with minimum compression so that, as the door rises, the contact between the window frames and stop molding is minimized.

On a high lift conversion the remedy is to adjust the roller carriers of the top fixtures so the window frames clear the trim when opening. When you do this, however, you will likely lose your seal at the top of the door.

gaps-on-high-lift with-windows

The solution for this is to pitch the tracks further into the garage with longer high lift brackets. When filling out the custom high lift inquiry just indicate that you have an outside lock you want to keep and this will provide the added pitch you need.

Another option for sealing the top of the door is to tighten the tops of the vertical stops and install a top weather seal on the door. These normally work only on the doors that are two inches thick.

Depending on door thickness and the distance from the tops of the window frames to the to the top PVC stop, both solutions may be required to get an adequate seal.

High Lift – How High Can I Go?

Monday, January 11th, 2016 at 1:09 pm by Dan Musick

High lift is defined as the dimension from the top of the garage door to the center line of the horizontal tracks. Most residential doors with 12″ radius tracks have 4 3/4″ of high lift, and doors with 15″ radius tracks have 7 1/2″ of high lift.

definition-of-high-lift

When engineering tracks to increase this high lift dimension, we add the existing high lift dimension to the track extension to determine the total high lift. For example, if we add 24″ vertical tracks the total high lift dimension for the door would would be 24″ + 7 1/2″ or 31 1/2.”

Our Garage Door High Lift Inquiry carefully calculates for maximum lift without risking customers having to spend the better part of a day reinstalling their high lift system. Customers still often ask if their door can be raised even higher. My short answer is that usually the tracks can extend another inch or two without any problem, but we can’t guarantee the results.

Here’s why.

Our program designs each high lift assembly with the shaft located four inches from the ceiling.

four-inches-to-shaft

The outer diameter of our standard high lift cable drum is almost 5 3/4 inches. The radius is about 2 7/8,” which leaves about 1 1/8″ clearance between the drums and the ceiling.

high-lift-drum-diameter

On some doors the top of the door rises higher than the drums and the extra inch is needed. Sometimes it is not, if the top of the door is lower than the tops of the drums.

drum-with-level-to door-top

If you don’t have a level you can measure the distance from the ceiling to the tops of both cable drums. Bear in mind that the larger diameter high lift drums require about 3/4″ of additional ceiling room.

ceiling-to-tops-of-drums

Measure also to the top of your door when it is at its highest point of travel. The bottom line is that whatever distance you raise the the tracks and torsion system, the drums and the top of the door as it travels through the tracks must fit under the ceiling.

top-of-door-to-ceiling (2)

There are two options for possibly adding another inch or two of high lift. One is to lower the end bearing plates on the horizontal track angles. You can do this if the drums are higher than the top of the door at its highest point. One thing you have to watch for is that lowering the drums could cause the top of the door to hit the drums as the door rises.

A second solution for lifting the door higher is to raise the rear ends of the horizontal tracks so the top of the door actually meets the ceiling when fully open. A car backed onto a lift and raised to a tight clearance may be able to fit just under the raised door. Note: Pitching up the ends of the horizontal tracks may require shortening the horizontal track angles.

tracks-raised-into-ceiling

 

 

 

 

High Lift Assembly Modifications

Monday, December 21st, 2015 at 9:41 am by Dan Musick

Since we first posted our custom High Lift Garage Door Conversion instructions several years ago, we have noticed a few things that need to be improved.

One was the alignment of the horizontal and vertical angles in step 7.11.

bracket2

This created a problem with the fitting of the end bearing plate in step 7.21. In our instructions we show cutting the angle to get the plate to fit.

high-lift-conversion-094

A second problem that plagued me for several years were our assembly instructions. We originally showed the extra work of sliding the brackets along the vertical high lift angle at the end. These instructions also lacked detail, and the step-by-step procedure needed to be honed.

The solution for both problems was to redo the instructions. In the new tutorial we show how to assemble the components starting from from the top – assembling the vertical and horizontal angle first – and then working your way down to the track extension. This change is included in the new high lift track assembly instructions we posted this fall.

high-lift-track-in-house-assembly-14

An added advantage to this is that it reduces the possibility of the junction bolt coming loose and the door losing its level. It probably also cut the assembly time in half for our customers.

On some tracks the horizontal track angles are rotated 90 degrees. The assembly for these is slightly different.

alternate-high-lift-angle

A third change we expect to make in the coming months is the angle for cutting the ends of the vertical tracks extensions. In our tutorial we specify four degrees, which works for most doors. In our Garage Door High Lift and Vertical Lift Inquiry the information you now enter allows our new program to specify the angle for cutting the ends of the tracks. If you see a note in your high lift kit or in your correspondence regarding the angle to cut your tracks, use this angle and not the four inches specified in our program.

A fourth change is to show pictures of double spring installations as we show on our garage door torsion spring replacement page. Our original program shows how to install a high lift with only one spring. We also want to show what a four spring setup looks like for the heavier doors.

A fifth change we want to show is how to install hardware with a shaft coupler. When converting to high lift, if  you don’t have a shaft, and if one is not available locally, we can send two shorter shafts with an extra spring anchor bracket and coupler.

shaft-coupler

This has also worked with 18′ wide doors where we sent, by FedEx, two 8’9″ shafts, one 2′ shaft for the middle, two couplers, and two spring anchor bracket kits.

The sixth change has to do with heavier springs on high lift doors. Our program is designed to spec idler support brackets for torsion springs that weigh over 20 pounds. These are normally installed just beyond the winding cone of each spring after it is wound. The formula for determining placement is (#turns on spring X wire size) + 2.” In most cases the bracket can be moved a foot or so to align with a stud.

shaft-support

A last change has to do with special applications where a customer needs to convert from double low headroom tracks to high lift. This may occur when a loft above the door is removed, or when a low headroom door is moved from one location to another.

low-headroom-06-double-tracks-rivets-300x201

In the coming months we hope to incorporate these changes into the revised high lift tutorial. Your patience is appreciated.

Rough Edges on High Lift Drums

Monday, November 16th, 2015 at 12:24 pm by Dan Musick

In recent months we have received emails from customers who installed high lift kits, and now one of their cables is fraying or unraveling.

IMG_0290

This appears to be a problem with the foundry where the OMI 4-54 HL LD cable drums are made. The joints of the molds leave rough edges on the drums. These rough edges need to be smoothed, but the foundry is not consistent in grinding the edges.

Rough Drum Edges

In recent months we started grinding all these drums in our shop.

If you purchased one of our kits in the last two years, and if you have a high lift cable that is beginning to fray or to unravel, we will provide new cables. You can file the rough edges on the drums, which would be less work, or, if you prefer, we will provide new drums as well. There will be no charge for the parts or for shipping. Please provide your order number, if available. Otherwise, we can search our invoices by your name.

I apologize for any inconvenience resulting from this quality issue.

Common High Lift Problems

Thursday, November 12th, 2015 at 12:22 pm by Dan Musick

Without first seeking professional help, the most common problem do-it-yourselfers encounter when adding vertical track and raising their garage doors a foot or more is that the door doesn’t balance.

In order to get the door to work at all, longer cables need to be installed. The installer will usually know to do that.

This is typically what happens, for example, after a do-it-yourselfer raises the horizontal tracks and torsion assembly on a seven foot high 200 pound door by two feet.

The springs on most seven foot high doors are wound 7 1/2 turns. If you wind your springs the same number of turns after raising the horizontal tracks two feet, the door will stay on the floor by itself when closed. However, as you raise the door, the higher you go the heavier the door gets. Except for the first foot or so the door will not stay open by itself.

Raising the tracks two feet requires about two extra turns of spring tension to hold the door open when raised. If you wind the springs 9 1/2 turns, the door will stay open, but as you close the door, the lower you go, the harder it gets to pull the door down. If you release the door in the closed position it will shoot up like a rocket.

If the springs are wound 8 1/2 turns, the door will balance about midway. The door won’t stay up and it won’t stay down, but it will stay half way.

In addition to not balancing the door, the extra turn or two on the springs reduces the cycle life by as much as two thirds.

One solution is to spring the door for nine feet of door height. The longer a spring is the less it pulls. The springs need to be longer so they lift 200 pounds with 9 1/2 turns when the door is closed, and yet, when the door is open nine feet, or less, there must be enough turns on the springs to support the door weight.

This solution will work with lighter doors and with doors where the tracks are raised only a foot. The door will not balance correctly, but it may work reasonably well. The springs can be wound to hold the door open and to allow the door to stay closed by itself.

The main problem arises as the door is lifted. Because the door does not immediately transfer weight to the horizontal tracks, the lifting weight of the door will increase for the first two feet or so of rise. On heavier doors this could trigger the sensors and shut off the openers.

The best solution, however, is do a complete high lift conversion. This will require new cables, drums and springs.

DR-400-54

High lift counterbalance is complex. A detailed explanation appears on our page titled “How Vertical-Lift and High-Lift Garage Doors Work.